Why is wear layer on wood flooring so important?

When we first get into the discussion of wear layer, we must define the term wear layer.  Quite frankly it refers to the re-sandable wood surface above the tongue and groove on wood flooring.  On 3/4″ solid wood floors, the wear layer is typically 6 millimeters (0.23622 inch).  Depending on texture (yes, heavy texture does effect your future re-sandings), you can typically expect 4-5 re-sandings.

Now let us examine re-sandability of engineered wood floors.  With so many types of engineered wood floors in the marketplace, we will start by defining what an engineered wood floor is and what it is not.  First and foremost, it is not laminate!  Laminate wood floors are essentially a “photograph” of wood grain glued to some type of backing material.  In most cases it may be MDF or similar.  In reality engineered wood floors are constructed of either a rotary cut or sawn piece of lumber that is glued to a structural backing.  So why use engineered wood floors?  First, they may be directly glued to the concrete slab.  Secondly, if using a less stable specie (see chart), an engineered wood floor provides additional stability.  When you select a Woodwright product, you get a sawn piece of lumber on a structurally sound backer.  Yes folks, it is real wood!  When it comes to thicknesses and wear layer of engineered wood floors, you face a wealth of options.  Floor thicknesses may range form 3/8″ to 3/4″.

Our engineered wood floors typically come in 2 thicknesses.  First, we offer a 5/8″ engineered wood floor with 4 millimeters (0.15748 inch) of wear layer.  Again depending on texture, you can rely on 3-4 re-sandings.  Our second engineered wood floor is 6 millimeters (0.23622 inch) of wear layer.  This is apples to apples re-sandability as compared to solid wood flooring and you get the added stability if you are using less stable specie. See the image below for a chart on estimated re-sandings of wood floors with varying wear layers.

resandings of wood floors
A lot of times we will receive the comment about engineered wood floors that the client does not want engineered because they do not like the edge treatment of glossy, pre-filled finish that dominates the marketplace today.  You know what?  You do not have to settle for that either.  Woodwright’s engineered wood flooring can be installed, field sanded and finished to crate the seamless, site finish look so many clients crave.  Our engineered wood floors are completely customizable so you do not have to settle.

Getting back on track, so why is wear layer important?  Product life is the simple answer.  Rather than having to replace or throw away a thinner wear product, you can sand and finish  thicker wear layer product multiple times.  In our next post, we will expand on the cost evaluation to demonstrate the long term value of selecting wood flooring with thicker wear layer.

Cheers till next time!

Selecting the Correct Finish: Oil versus Urethane

Applying the right finish on your wood flooring offers two compelling benefits.  First, it can help bring out the natural beauty of the wood.  Most importantly, it helps protect the wood from damage and dirt.  So when it comes time to select the correct finish, where do you begin?

First let’s clear up a common misconception between wood stain and wood finish.  Wood stain simply refers to a color element, typically liquid, that is applied to the wood that dyes the wood a particular color.  It offers no protective quality for your wood flooring.  However wood finish protects a floor from damage by providing a “shield” on the top layer.  In addition it can also alter the color of the wood.

Now that we know the difference between staining and finishing, which finish is the best for your application?

Most common are urethane finishes.  Whether site finished or shop applied (prefinished), urethane finishes are the most durable.  The most common prefinished floors in the marketplace today have an Aluminum Oxide (urethane) finish.  Aluminum Oxide urethane floors are extremely scratch resistant and durable yet they do have a downside.  First, they are difficult to recoat because the finish is so hard. In contrast, two coats of a field applied water-based polyurethane offer similar durability yet allows the floor to be recoated more easily.

It is important to note that recoating a urethane floor as needed is necessary and helps to increase the overall lifecycle of the floor. Urethane finished floors look the best the day they are installed and continue to get scratched, scuffed and worn over time until you have to be recoated or refinished. Damage to a urethane floor is easily identifiable by the “white” scratches on the finish (see image).  Since you are walking on the urethane finish rather than the wood, more often than not the damage is contained to the finish.  However in order to fix the finish, you must remove all furniture from the space to apply an even uniform fresh coat of finish.

Oil finishes have increased in popularity over the years mainly due to a movement towards low sheens and more natural aesthetics.  Oil finished floors are excellent for bringing out the
natural beauty of your selected wood specie.  While not as durable as a urethane finish, they do offer greater flexibility in repairing any damage.

A noticeable difference regarding oil finishes on floors is that you are walking on the wood surface versus a plastic-like film on most urethanes.  When scratches occur on oiled floors, you can buff and blend them away very easily without removing the furnishings. Because of the flexibility to repair damages on oiled floors, if you are working with a client that does a lot of entertaining, an oiled floor is an excellent selection as it is easy to return the floor to pristine condition.

Maintenance is another key in extending the product life cycle of your wood floor.  Urethane and oiled floors are maintained in different ways.  When specifying the finish type, please be mindful of whether or not regular cleaning and maintenance will be a priority with the owner.

A urethane floor finish should be DRY MOPPED AND VACUMMED.  Seldom will it ever be damped mopped.  With excessive damp mopping, it is possible for contaminants to create a haze on the finish.  Additionally, these contaminants may present adhesion issues when it becomes time to recoat.

In contrast, oil floor finishes may be damp mopped with a soap and water solution.  Working on a restaurant project?  We would highly recommend an oil finish because it can be damp mopped as well as the flexibility in “refreshing” the floors without major disruption to business.

In conclusion, each finish type has its’ downside.  It is important to know how the floor will be used, maintained and cleaned to insure that you are specifying the correct floor finish for your project.

Cheers till next time!